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The main topic of the highly expected World Expo in Shanghai this year is “Better city, better world”. I have visited the site in July and from what I saw I came one important conclusion: Many countries think that not only better city means better world for them but also producing wine can make our world better!

It is no wonder that, the pavilions of France or Italy showed their pride in making wine to the visitors, but also, for example Chile showed that they take their wines seriously. An excellent wine bar together with a wine shop and young Chileans eager to answer you all questions that can pop into your head were one of the main highlights of the Chilean pavilion.

I have tasted one or two glasses of their great wines and in a mean time took some pictures for you.

"Wine rack" at Chilean Pavilion

Wine tasting at the Chilean pavilion

There are plenty of wine shops and wine bars offering prevailingly French wines. However, I found some of a different provenance – from California to Spain. And you do not meet only Westerners buying these wines, there are many locals browsing the shelves of the increasingly popular wine shops in Asia.

Napa Reserve

SHANGHAI Napa Reserve wine shop offers a wide range of Californian wines as its name discloses. It is conveniently located in the proximity of the bustling Nanjing Lu (road) just across from the Four Seasons hotel.

On the same road there are two other wine shops. One is heavily French oriented (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Loire, Languedoc, Rousillon, etc.) and the other one offers a little bit of everything.

Chinese are new wine drinkers and their penchant for Bordeaux had to leave a mark on the majority of wine lists. Although not only Bordeaux dominate the wine lists, but often you find some Chinese wines from the low-keyed Great Wall to nice light wines from Shanxi province.

MANILA Barcino wine shop is located in one of the top shopping malls so popular in Manila – in Greenbelt. Except the hotels and the luxurious shopping malls you rarely find wine shops or wine bars. The entire food and drinking culture in the capital of Philipines is oriented around this modern and for many locals not accessible venues.

Specialised in Spanish wines, it is not a surprise in this former Spanish colony. The choice is wide from great bargains to top-notch Riberas and Riojas. Spanish-speaking South American treasures from Chile and Argentina can be also bought.

The wine shop bears the same name of the super tasty and authentic Spanish restaurant in the same shopping complex.

Contact: tel: +632 9000726

Barcino wine shop and bar

Barcino inside

SINGAPORE Villa Enrique is a Spanish tapas bar and restaurant in the popular area for foodies – Dempsey, has some tasty appetizers but some of them are a bit disappointing. On the other hand their sangria can proudly carry its name here, the wine list is also worth to check out. Spanish wines are a staple though and the service can be a bit slow sometimes. The ambiance is the main reason to have a drink there.

Stylish Indoor restaurant

Tapas bar in Dempsey

“The winemaker should touch the wine the less as is possible. I believe, that the nature is expressed the most.”                                                                                                                                                              Manuel Rodrigues

With a fortunate hand-on experience working on a vineyard in Chablis with his father a Portuguese-born Manuel Rodrigues had the doors open to enter the wine world with a glory. He used the knowledge he gained  and further expanded his theoretical basis as he studied at the Hospitality School Bourges in Loire Valley, France.

At his tender age (25) he has already won numerous Young Apprentice and Young Sommelier awards and worked with such distinguished chefs as a 3-Michelin Star Santi Santamaria and tasted the luxury of a 7-star Burj Al Arab hotel as a sommelier in 2006.

He isn’t spoiled though by such a remarkable background. With his upbeat personality he openly shares with me his insights about wine and unveils his plans for the revival of the wine cellar at  the luxurious hotel St. Regis in Singapore where he was recently appointed a Grand Sommelier.

The choice of three wines for today’s tasting at the Decanter, a breathtaking wine tasting room at St. Regis, discloses that he likes to give a chance to lesser known wine areas and is not fixed only on the Bordeaux and Burgundy as many top restaurants and hotels often do.

Decanter wine bar at St.Regis

As we taste the white crisp Alsace Riesling from Trimbach 2002 ( one of my favourite producers) he says: “I like Trimbach as he uses traditional methods in wine making. Great wine for me opens with time in the glass.” His honest approach to wine unveils as he claims that,

“the wine maker cannot lie as the nature of the wine should be expressed.” That the tradition is slowly dying out saddens him particularly in the case of France. “It is a pity that Petit Verdot is used less and less in Bordeaux, it adds acidity and extends the ageing potential of the wine.”

The respect for tradition seems to be correlated to his homage to nature. “The winemaker should touch the wine the less as is possible. I believe, that the nature is expressed the most.” As we taste his next choice of red Chilean intense and red fruit based Purple Angel by Montes 2007 he confesses: “This wine from the New World is great, there is nothing wrong with it, but you are not going to think where it comes from, how it was made or who is the producer.”

The wine is like a personality. The young but well experienced sommelier says: “When you taste the wine and talk after with the winemaker then you will think much more about how the wine is related to his personality.” The wine seems to reflect its “father”, the producer.

When I ask him what is the most fascinating wine region on the world for him I get s straight forward response. “I was lucky to be born there – Burgundy. It is so much about the terroir and I admire that.”

But, he remains open to exploring other wines. The Merlot based jammy and well balanced Les Bataux, Les Vins de Salins 2006 from Languedoc Rousillon in South of France pleases my palate and I dare to say that it will be appreciated by the sweetness seeking Asian taste as it is not at all punchy but  boasts with yummy red fruit tones. Languedoc is becoming more popular not only in Europe but owning to sommeliers like Manuel Rodrigues now also in Asia.

The visitors of Singapore will notice his touch in the entire character of the cellar at St. Regis soon as he intends to “balance the wine list with adding more little known but excellent wines from Spain and Portugal”.

Lets get surprised.

If you have attended the tasting at the Decanter wine bar, please share your insights with WINEBEING. I am very curious how this cellar develops over time.

Kym Schroeter

 

On his recent visit to Singapore to introduce luxury and iconic Penfolds wines to local consumers Kym Schroeter, senior winemaker currently responsible for the entire range of highly promising white wines, shared his insights about Australian wine production and specifically at Penfolds with me.

Do you think that Syrah is the most popular grape variety in Australia now?

Certainly it is the most widely planted red grape variety in Australia and Chardonnay is the white wine variety. I think what Barossa does really well is Shiraz. We are famous for it. I guess Shiraz is probably a big focus for imports. It grows there so well, it is suited to our climate in Barossa and I think that we produce some of the best Shiraz on the world.

How would you describe the soil and climate in Barossa Valley?

 We have lot of sandy top soils lot of good free draining soils – it seems to be the best for Shiraz. The climate is more Meditteranean but we have very hot summers. Shiraz likes hot weather, most of our best vineyards are not irrigated and we do not have lot of rain so the grapes struggle a lot – Shiraz likes to struggle, to stress water a little bit and especially in very hot years it produces very concentrated vines.

Have you been considering planting any other grape varieties there?

Yes, we found that Tempranillo and Sangiovese does grow extremely well in Barossa. Penfolds has actually several reserves of Sangiovese. We have done it for a number of years now, but they are still relatively new vines (10-15 years). Tempranillo is very new as we have been growing most of it for about two years.

There is a bit of niche market in Australia for them. It seems that Spanish and Italian grape varieties do very well in Australia. We are very traditional but we also try to experiment and try new grapes. We also do a bit of Pinot Gris (Italian Pinot Griggio) so we are not that old school.

Do you accustom your wines to Australian market or do you think more globally?

For example in Europe you can see more tannins in wines. Is it because Australians do not like tannins?

 Yes and no. We add a lot of tannin, it is not all natural tannins. Particularly in Cabernet. It is a fine line with tannins, we try to find a balance so we take of the skins from the wine before it gets too bitter (in Grange) and then add it to achieve great balance. We know that tannins are necessary for good ageing. We add them as a powder or dissolve them in a hot water as a liquid and we add it into the fermenting wine.

Do you try to achieve consistency or variety?

Definitely consistency in quality. We are multi-region sourced vineyard and that is advantage as we can achieve consistency year after year. We can choose grapes from a vineyard which does well in that particular year. That is why I think the French are a bit locked as there is inconsistency in various vintages.

Koonuga Hill wine

 Which Penfolds vineyard is your favorite?

I have three regions which I think are the best in Australia. They are Adelaide Hills, Tasmania and Tumbarumba. With probably with Tasmania producing the best Chardonnay as in our Yattarna.

What do you think about the cork versus screw cap issue?

We use screw caps, especially in white wines it is better. As soon as you put cork into bottle it becomes to change. We put some of our wines into a corked bottle and others into a screw-capped and after several weeks we could see a difference, the wine enclosed by the screw cap was much fresher.

In some very good corked bottle you will see a good slow maturation but screw cap keeps it fresh so it depends what you want. The other think is that if you buy a case of wine with a cork you can have some bed wines, with a screw cap that is not the case.

I interviewed Giuseppe Vacarini, the Best Sommelier of the World in 1978 what the competition used to be and what it is now. I had the pleasure speaking to him on his recent visit to Singapore where he introduced new book – Nespresso Coffee Codex he has co-written. The book unveils the methodology and art of coffee appreciation.

How to become the Best Sommelier

The second part of the interview answers the major difference between wine and coffee sourcing, their pairing with food and also what actually distinguishes a sommelier from a barrister.

Wine and coffee talk

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