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New year, new skill

If you are one of us enthusiasts setting at least one resolution for the upcoming year, you are aware that you won’t probably stick to it for long unless you get a year membership in a gym, subscribe to Psychologies to find how to improve your relationships or visit Vinopolis and attend one of their “HOW TO TASTE WINE” guided tours to avoid next social faux pas when saying that you prefer white wines because all the reds are like drinking a tea from wood.

Vinopolis is a vast premise located near to the London bridge where you can immerse yourself into a wine bottle or – less radically – you can learn a bit about the history of wine, wine varieties, principles and methods of wine making, taste some wines, and be guided through the simple procedure how to taste wine. All this in an amusing way in this “museum” of wine and spirits in London.

The basic ticket with coupons for 5 wines and a cocktail

You can purchase the tickets online or on the spot. There are variety of tickets available. The basic one includes tasting of 5 wines plus a cocktail at a Saphire cocktail bar inside the Vinopolis. The prices start at £19.50 out of peak. You can also buy extra coupons for “higher quality” wines.

Fancy a wine with a chocolate or wine with cheese? Then you can attend some of their special wine events, where you learn how to pair wine and other skills. The drawback is that the events take place usually once a month so you need to book them in advance. We preferred a simple wine tasting tour.

Shortly after you enter you can watch a number of movies about the history of wine and adore the ancient wine jugs exhibited there. You might be surprised when realising that already people in Mesopotamia were drinking wine and that Georgia is one of the oldest wine countries. Perhaps a good idea for your next vacations – tracing the history of wine in Georgia.

Every 30 minutes there is a guided session with a wine expert explaining step by step the art of sniffing, smelling, tasting, whirling and also playing with wine in your mouth. You see, it isn’t so boring or soulless to really analyse the white, rose or red grape liquid in your mouth. This session teaches you enough so you are ready to explore the world of wine.

Now to tasting itself. Start with a glass of bubbly at the Champagne bar then move to the first room where a new world wines are lined up waiting for you to decide which one gets the privilege being your first experiment at the Vinopolis. In the following rooms are more classical French, Italian and Spanish wines. The choice is very extensive so consult the wine with the assistants serving the wines as they know their stuff. Some of them will be really helpful the other might be less friendly and knowledgeable. Though, feel with them, perhaps they are just having a bad day, so move to the next one.

If you prefer your wine with a nibble you can buy a tapas plate with olives, meats and cheeses in the tasting rooms or if yo are really hungry you can finish your wine tour with a lunch or a dinner at one of the restaurants inside the Vinopolis.

Finally, if you liked some of the wines so much you can buy them in the shop placed just at the end of you tour though a labyrinth of Vinopolis.

At the Vinopolis you can also explore the mouth burning Absinthe, rum, whiskies and also a beer from their own brewery.

An IMPORTANT advice by at the end: Don’t try the Thai wine they offer in their unusual wine section. It is really so bad. I had to drink two cocktails instead of one to fix my palate.

Opening hours:
Monday – Wednesday: Closed
Thursday – Saturday: 12pm – 10pm
Sunday: 12pm – 6pm,
Last entry 2.5 hours before closing on all days
The Bombay Sapphire Blue Room and selected tasting tables will close 30 minutes prior to the rest of the tour.

For those of you who have a solid base knowledge about wine and want to extend it you can attend one of the special classes called Tom’s wine school hosted by the wine expert Tom Forrest once a month.

No, I don’t want to advice you to become a thief or to point at a commercial introduction of a new product where the opportunists pretend how much they like the wine just to get more for free.

Instead, I want to take you to a wine bar inside the Julius Meinl supermarket in Vienna.

Julius Meinl am Graben isn’t just one of the grocery stores, it is the first one and attracts food and drinks lovers from all Vienna for its first class selection of foods, drinks and the tastiest delicatessen you can’t even imagine.

In the wine section you will find top Austrian wines but also stairs taking you down into a cosy and modern wine bar. There you can enjoy the signature Austrian wines by glass while dipping and picking from the various tasty tapas and even sushi and sashimi of the highest quality.

Delicious tapas plate at Meinl's Weinbar

 

Meinl’s Weinbar was packed with guests even in the middle of the day. Wine and champagne lovers were indulging in their liquids with shopping bags resting by their feet – a nice break from monotonous grocery shopping.

Vienna: Meinl's wine bar

 

Back in Britain. Are you for introducing this concept to our supermarkets here?

I don’t think that Tesco would surprise you with some outstanding wines. However, what about Waitrose or Marks and Spencer? They have some nice bottles on offer so why not to have a glass?

Set a way far from the herds of tourists relentlessly taking pictures of each corner of Paris Vivin is the right place to unwind after a five-hour museum marathon.

Following the advice of a friend ( naturally a wine enthusiast like me ) I took a break from my annual January sales hunting and headed to the suburbs of Paris to visit Vivin. This wine shop is known for its cellar full of rare mostly French wines for which you would have to pay a fortune in a restaurant if they had them on their wine list.  

Vivin in Paris

 

Expecting a shop/bar type of place I thought  the address wrong while entering this cosy wine shop. I forgot to mention, that my friend was singing odes on the incredible food he cherished there. Instead, lots, lots and lots of bottles, two huge Spanish hams and a very tall man looking at us as if we just landed from Mars. No wonder as the first thing we asked for was if we could have some lunch.

French gurmet lifestyle 

 

Delicious ham ready to be sliced

 

Following laughs from the only table set in the middle of the shop with comments like “so tourists came for lunch to a wine shop,…where are you from?”, we explained we would like to buy some interesting wine and drink it with a bite to eat, and at that point the ice broke down and we were warmly adjoined to the table. Suddenly a crunchy bread, salad and extraordinary plate of the best Spanish ham, marinated peppers, anchovies with pistachios, and even a mouth watering cheese board landed on our table.

Exchange trade is still alive

Champagne Duret-Marchant Brut

We got a bottle of white Volnay 2005 premier cru, Nicolas Rossignol from Burgundy and shared it with the group next to us for which we got a taste of their red wine ( Domaine la Tour Vieille, Collioure, 2007) from the South-West of France. Both of them of a unique taste. 2005 was an excellent year for white Burgundy. Chardonnay, the typical grape variety for Burgundy, expressed its full potential in this year as it was superbly delicate. Syrah in the red Collioure is dominant. The very first sip unveils typical spicy tones a la Syrah, nevertheless this wine is also fresh and juicy with a nice body as it is blended with Grenache, also found in Spanish Rioja and Priorat,  known for its cherry and peppery flavour. As we indulged in our n-th glass, it turned out that one of the French gentlemen was a wine expert hosting various tastings all over Paris. Now, I was sure, that we are at the right place.

To finish up our outstanding lunch, the wine expert ordered a bottle of Champagne, but not a usual one which you can see at every Nicolas or Oddbins. Champagne Duret-Marchant Brut was surprisingly fruity and naturally slightly sweet.  As it is a brut, a dry champagne into which only a pinch of sugar is being added, you could drink and drink and never stop. Yes, I mean that, I was lucky enough to have there my partner to help me to find my way back to the hotel.

A real French style lunch. Over two hours and instead of a glass you end up with two bottles. How they do it? God knows, though there is something on the French way of life as they are one of the longest living nations and rarely suffer from heart diseases. So, instead of a spa head to a cellar, slow down the pace of your life ( enjoy long lunches ), and you will live longer! I am just wondering how many days I added to my life while staying in Paris for four days. Scientists! This is worth of an experiment.

The cellar

After finishing the first bottle I was trying to find my way to the ladies room and there it is! Hidden downstairs at the end of  the lovely cellar. Walking on the stones on the floor I felt as if I were in a little village in Burgundy or Bordeaux and not in the 10 million metropolis. You must see it.

The cellar

 

Vivin

Tel: 0146241919

114 Avenue Achille Peretti

92200 Neuilly-Sur-Seine

La Tour d’Argent Paris

 

The bible of wine lists

 

400, 000 bottles in a cellar in the middle of the French capital, that is really something! You can find not only a stunning collection of wines from all parts of France, but also can be pampered by gourmet food in the restaurant La Tour d’Argent nesting right on the bank of the Seine river.

The view is breathtaking. The lights of boats passing by and spectacular Notre Dame remind you that you are in one the most romantic places in the world – in Paris.

The cellar

Many diners visit the restaurant just for its wine list. What is impressive is the way in which the wines are kept. The cellar has the best temperature regulation in the whole of Paris. Stéphane Trapier, a second assistant head sommelier said: “We keep the wines under a very low temperature so they age slower than is usual. Therefore, the vintages you get here have a unique taste.”

 Misleading reviews

La Tour D’Argent suffered from negative food reviews in the past couple of years, often rated simply as quite boring. Nevertheless, its proprietors – the family Terrail, spotted it just on time leading to a massive improvement in the menu. 

Delicious scallops with truffles

 

The signature dish

You can spoil your taste butts on their famous Duck which has been served here to kings, queens, state leaders as well as to Holywood stars since its foundation in 1582! It is definitely one of the oldest restaurants in Europe, perhaps in the world! If you are not a big fan of a duck you can enjoy the mouth watering scallops with truffles or a foie gras melting in your mouth like a chocolate.

Salvador Dalí eating the famous duck at La Tour d'Argent

 

Famous diners

While having your aperitif downstairs at the cosy bar with a fireplace your eyes will be glued up to the walls full of the pictures and autographs from such honorable diners as Salvador Dali, J. F. Kennedy or king and queen of Japan.

A drawing from S. Dali for La Tour d'Argent

 

Historical bottles

Grande Fine Champagne La Tour d'Argent 1800

 

Though what is jaw-dropping are the bottles “enveloped” in dust whose labels only those with hieroglyphic skills can in some cases puzzle out. Chateu d’Yquiem 1880 or Grande Fine Champagne Tour d’Argent 1800 sit behind the glass enclosed cabinets.

Today, the cellar can be visited if you contact some of the sommeliers or the owners, but it wasn’t so always. During the Second World War, the treasures of the cellar were saved from devastation from Germans only thanks to Claude Terrail who walled off part of the cellars. His heroic effort protected one of the biggest cellars in France for further generations so you can still today, if you are patient enough, get on the long wait list and admire the bible sized wine list presented before your dinner.  

The bible of wine lists

Once the wine list was in front of my eyes I couldn’t get my hands off of it. Nervous sommeliers must have been thinking that I found a new religion as I turned page by page of this massive book and studied all of its contents. It is strong on Burgundies. Treasures like Chambertin 1865 and Romanée 1874 may be well pass their peak, but they have an enormous value if you imagine that these vintages could have been drunk by Alexander II, Czar of All the Russias, or by F. D. Roosevelt, who both wined and dined here. The choice of Bordeaux doesn’t stand behind as you can find the strongest vintages such as 1982 or 1990 in most of the best Chateaux found there. 

It is not just about wines

Bubbly aficionados will be more than pleased. Top vintage champagnes are nesting in the first part of the wine list. Besides, you can ask for a list of strong cognacs, brandies, French Armagnacs and Madeiras all of discernible vintages. Their higher concentration of alcohol extends their age worthiness when compared to wine.

wine from Madeira 1910

Madeira from 1910

 

I have tasted Madeira 1910, the oldest liquid ever in my mouth, and I can now confirm the dust on the bottle doesn’t mean that its content has the same life span as human beings. Contrary to this, this brownish sweet Madeira resembled leather, walnuts and dark wood on the palate. I had a sip of Malvasia Vintage Madeira 1934 as well as I was curious to find this grape variety typical for Sicily in a desert wine from Madeira. It was much sweater and gentler than the classical Madeira. I would say it was more of a female drink as it was more subtle on the palate.   

I wasn’t lucky enough this time to visit the cellar as it was undergoing a reconstruction. Nevertheless, I was promised to see it on my next visit to Paris so keep reading my blog and soon you can see the secrets of one of the most interesting places not only for wine lovers right here on WINEBEING.

A quiz question at the end: I have had a bottle of wine there which I personally desired for a long time. I give you a hint – I love art and as most of us I find the year of my birth exceptional ( even though in the case of wine it is the right temperature, amount of sun and rain which makes the wine outstanding ). So which wine we were drinking at La Tour d’Argent?

A trendy way to serve wine

I have found this unique wooden wine dispenser at a Christmas market in Budapest.

I am wondering why there aren’t more producers of such decorative and handy tools for wine lovers. Seeing these in wine shops would add more “artistic” feel to them. Look at Chateau Mouton Rotschild. The owners were creative and today people pay astronomic prices for their wine! 

carved wooden wine dispenser

High quality wine by the glass? Usually, you would have to visit one of the top gourmet wine restaurants or bars where you would pay a fortune for them. Not in Vienna.

Traditional Heurigen are a blessing for wine lovers visiting the Austrian capital as well as for locals. These legendary wine shops, which are sometimes also wine bars, with a traditional Austrian ambiance are run by Viennese wine growers. You can get a very nice glass of Grüner Veltliner for as little as 1,50 € or a tasting session of six varieties from 7 €.

"smart" wine tasting board

Compared to the Middle Ages when the wines sprawled out right into the centre of the town, today you must head to the outskirts. In the North you find fine Riesling, Chardonnay and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) pampered by the limestone soil. The most popular and also more touristy area there is Grinzing.

If you want to escape the crowd then head to the South. Black earth soils favour strong white wines and opulent red cuvées (blends).

In a bone-chilling December I couldn’t explore any of the open vineries, so popular during the summer as you can enjoy wines outdoors with a spectacular view on Vienna.
During the winter you have to look for places with their own warm premises where you can taste the whole evening and in some even get a bite to eat.

I’ve visited Steinklammer, located in the Southern area of Mauer. This Heuriger has over 310 years of tradition and their staff is very helpful.

Steinklammer heurigen

Steinklammer heurigen

Their lovely wooden inn was perfect for an icy evening. Starting with a glass of white Grüner Veltliner, high in acidity and tasting like a ripe green pear, I was a bit disappointed as it was perhaps too young for me.

Nevertheless, I moved to a Riesling, Reisberg, 2008 smelling like elder flower , which with its balanced and refreshing citrus aroma enticed me to taste more.

I moved to reds and went for a tasting of six varieties for 9€. They were served on a long wooden tray with six fitted cuts for glasses.

The most interesting was Cabernet Franc 2002. Sweet at the beginning reminding me a black currant juice and later moving to deeper tones of casis.

Similar to this was Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 as it was quite fruity as well, but more distinct tannins in the mouth.

Cuvée Titan 2005 was a blend of Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Its unique taste of raisins and griotte was a pearl in a shell. Now I could happily leave this cosy Heuriger lucky enough to have a friend to take me home in her car. No way I would be able to drive after such a feast!

Still I was far from tasting all. In Vienna you can explore a wide variety of the typical “Gemischter Satz”, which is a wine made from different grape varieties planted next to each other and even harvested together.

Viennese are not afraid to experiment, but not on the account of the quality. Their wines will surprise you.

I bet, that most of you will know mostly the white Austrian wines as they make for 70% of the total production. That said the remaining 30% of reds are worth trial, at least for me they were a pleasant surprise. Let me know if I am wrong.

Look at the list of Heurigen in Vienna:
http://www.weinausoesterreich.at/winerysearch/list.php?Weinbaugebiet=16

               facts and facts about viticulture in Austria:
http://www.weinausoesterreich.at/data/facts.html

There are over 20 wine regions in Hungary. During my visit of Budapest I got recommended the Southern area Villányi near the border with Serbia.

Villányi has high potential with its red wines high in tannins often with oak aroma as they age in the oak barrels.

Andante wine bar

Andante wine bar

 

One of the top producers there is Ede Tiffan, whose son Zsolt is a co-owner of a wine bar Andante next to the spectacular chain bridge in Budapest. Andante proudly offers the widest selection of wines by the glass in the town. Their prices are more than friendly and you can savour some organic snacks and cheese.

Moreover, Ede Tiffan was the first winner of the vineyard of the year in 1990 in Hungary. His Régimondi Cuvée had a rich and full bodied taste.

Tiffan establishes concurrence for the other big producer István Szépsy, who is the king of the Tokaj region. His success proves that great Hungarian wines aren’t just in Tokaj.

From Villányi I have tasted the red Pinot Noir 2007 with lovely tannins quite surprising in Hungarian wines. It is aged in the oak barrels therefore you will find in it some wooden reminiscences.

The producers from Villányi are proud of their cuvées (blends). I have relished the Bordeux blend (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) in Gere Kopar Cuvée 2006. Its wooden tones smoothening with age seal the high quality.

If you go for this cuvée then go for 2003 as according to the wine waiter Mihaly Vajda this one was just spectacular. You can order it by e-mail or call to the Présház wine store.   

  Présház wine store: +36 1 266 1100
                 www.preshaz.hu/en/

Preshaz wine store in Budapest

 

Preshaz wine store inside

 

Royal Tokaji Aszu Essencia

 

Popularity of the sweet wines from the Tokaj region in the North-East of Hungary isn’t a new phenomena.

Already in the 18.century Tokaji was enjoyed by the European courts and the Tokaji style was copied by such renowned areas as Sauternes. Today, producers from Sauternes ask astronomic prices for their wines, while Tokaji are still down to earth.

The name Tokay is used by French for wines made from Pinot Gris, so it is often being misused for the sweet wines from the region of Tokaj in Hungary.

The challenging 20. century

Unfortunately, during the Communist era after the WWII. the wine production in Hungary suffered and had to be reborn in 1990s thanks to generous investors from Western Europe.

Promising future

Today, there are many small wine makers producing first class wines. They proudly use local grape varieties as well as the typical European vines (mostly French and German).

Szepsy Furmint

Between the local whites you can explore the acidic Furmint which, if not used for a sweet Tokaji, offers refreshing wine resembling Granny Smith apples. However, mostly it is used in Tokaji for its acidity balancing the sugars typical for this wine.

 The trick

Tokaji gets its sweetness from the fungus Botrytis which actually dries the grapes out therefore the concentration of sugars is higher than in non-botrytised grapes. Mihaly Vajda, a sommelier at the excellent Tigris restaurant in Budapest explained that the selection of the best grapes is called Aszú. Therefore if you see Tokaji Aszú, you can be sure that you are getting something special.

The quality and sweetness of Tokaji is measured by PUTTONYOS numbered from 3-6. The higher the number the more acidity and sugars as well as quality. Mihaly said: “It isn’t just about numbers, ideal is when the acidity perfectly balances the sweetness, then you get exceptional Tokaji.” Furthermore, there isn’t a number classification above 6. In the good years the essence (Esszencia) squeezed from the grapes is added to the must and then you get the outstanding Tokaji Aszú Esszencia.

Mihaly is also working in a wine shop at Mérleg street in central Budapest. Their wide selection of wines is often accompanied by tastings and professional advice from their well spoken staff makes it an ideal place to purchase some wine.

Various Tokaji wines in Preshaz wine shop

 

 International awards

Recently, the Royal Tokaji Aszú, 5 Puttonyos 2005 got to the Top 100 rating by the The Wine Spectator (US leading wine magazine). It achieved the 44. ranking. I had to get a bottle. Not the cheapest, but still affordable. This wine is really worth it. Lovely sweetness isn’t too heavy, excellent balance with its acidity. Honeyed apricot with orange peel prevailing in its taste. Perfect for deserts, fruits, and blue cheese. Don’t mix it with the mouth watering Hungarian foie gras though, for that it is better to get sweet Szamorodni Édes Tokaji. I have tasted the one from the top producer Szepsy with ripe apricot and honey flavour. With the selection of the most delicate foi gras I have ever had at the Tigris restaurant I felt like I was on a different planet.

Greek wine

Wine has been popular for centuries. On paintings depicting Ancient Greek festivities you will see wine and grape motives again and again, even though some try to proove that for example Aristotle did mean by his legendary quote “it is WINE in name, but not in effect…” that what they were drinking there wasn’t actually the alcoholic beverage as we know it these days!

Whatever it was that Greeks were drinking, it must have had some particular effect different from typical non-alcoholic drinks, otherwise there wouldn’t be any god of wine often also connected to ecstatic experience as Dionysus (also called Bacchus) was. The wine jugs you can see in museums all over the world suggest that Greeks were not just making a juice from grapes. Besides, the acclaimed intellectual gatherings called “symposia” where drinking wine was accompanied by philosophical discussions suggests that wine was almost a sacred drink and it had not much in common with fruit juices like Innocent smoothies nowadays.

What more, there are over 300 indigenous grape varieties in Greece!

I have tried Assyrtiko from one of the Aegean islands Santorini.

Thalassitis is one of the signature wines of Gaia winery, producing wines since 1994. It has light citrus aroma with earthy sub-tones. Its acidity you feel at the finish is quite unique for the wine’s rather high alcohol content.

Have you tried any Greek wines? If yes, which one and how did you like it?

You can get Greek wine made from Assyrtiko grapes at wine-searcher or in many shops and supermarkets in the UK( Waitrose has some).

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